Housing is a key part of Korea’s economic development and home ownership is considered a crucial investment, but affordability has long been an issue. This resulted in the highly unique ‘Jeongse’ housing system which sits somewhere between ownership and renting. Tenants pay a one-time deposit of 50-80% of a property’s value that is effectively an interest-free loan for the landlord to reinvest elsewhere before it is returned.

The system originates from a time when housing finance was limited and interest rates were high after WW2. It often acts as a stepping stone to ownership, with tenants borrowing money from banks to pay the deposits and build wealth.

But this comes with dangers as it requires house prices to consistently grow and for landlords to invest responsibly. These came to a head in 2022 when interest rate rises resulted in tenants requesting their deposits back, but many landlords couldn’t do this due to overleveraged investments. Many tenants therefore lost their money as some landlords fled, causing prices to fall.

The fragility of this model is an issue as Korea has some of the world’s highest levels of household debt, primarily due to high house prices. These are cited as a key factor in the country having the lowest birthrate in the world of just 0.72. A 2023 report noted that a 1% rise in house prices leads to 0.002 fewer births per woman, highlighting the issue of housing affordability that is affecting young people in so many countries.

Seoul from the air
The overwhelming scale of Seoul: High-density living is a necessity in a city where urban land is at a premium.

From an architectural perspective, I’m intrigued by the overwhelming preference for contemporary flats over houses unlike the UK. The attraction comes from better amenities and comfort in prime urban areas that make them better investments.

Street at night
The vibrant pulse of the Korean street: Commercial and residential lives overlapping after dark.
Street at night 2
Neon-lit density: Amenities and convenience are the primary drivers for urban apartment living.

Despite this, the traditional ‘Hanok’ housing highlights the complex relationships the country has with its architectural past. These are houses with brick walls, short eaves, glass windows, brick and tile walls, and internal courtyards.

On the one hand, the Buckchon Hanok Village in Seoul is a preserved and highly desirable residential neighbourhood. It attracts so many tourists that wardens are employed to ensure they keep their voices down. In contrast, down the road is Ikseon-dong, where similar homes have been transformed into cafes, boutiques, bars, and restaurants after the structures fell into disrepair as residents moved out to more modern accommodation.

Bukchon street
Bukchon's quiet lanes: A carefully guarded pocket of residential history.
Bukchon sign
The price of preservation: Strict rules on noise to maintain residential sanity amid tourist interest.
Bukchon wall
The materiality of the past: Traditional masonry in Bukchon.
Hanok courtyard
The introverted courtyard: Finding private peace in a Hanok guesthouse.
Ikseon-dong tea house
Ikseon-dong: Where residential decay met commercial creativity, transforming old homes into high-end social spaces.
Ikseon-dong street
Commercial revitalization: The traditional Hanok frame as a boutique retail vessel.
Ikseon-dong courtyard
A divergence of use: Private courtyard turned public commercial focal point.

Both villages are equally as instagrammable but promote divergent uses of a still clearly appreciated traditional architecture: high-end private residences vs bustling commercial activity.

Stream day
Cheonggyecheon: A daylight hub for urban commuters and residents alike.
Stream day transition
Stitching the city back together through modern landscape architecture.
Stream night transition
Transitioning to the neon economy: The stream as a nighttime destination.
Stream night
The glow of modern Seoul reflecting on its managed natural assets.

Away from the capital, the housing market on Jeju Island offers a different perspective on the "holiday" and retirement market, blending modern apartment blocks with the island's unique volcanic landscape.

Jeju flats
Prime real estate on Jeju: Modern apartment blocks overlooking the East China Sea.
Jeju house
Island typologies: Contemporary detached dwellings on the volcanic coast.
Jeju house 2
The architectural variety of Jeju's growing residential market.